Why Does My Gas Oven Igniter Glow Orange but the Burner Won't Ignite?

• Verify home gas shutoff valve behind range is fully open in parallel with the line.
• Listen closely for an audible mechanical click or gas hiss within 60 to 90 seconds of turning oven on.
• Ensure lower oven cavity bottom floor and flame spreader baffle are seated properly.

• Measure igniter operating current with an AC clamp meter; must draw 3.2 to 3.6 amps.
• Dual bi-metal gas safety valve coil open or jammed internally.
• Electronic oven control board (EOC) bake relay contact burned out.

Gas oven glow-bar igniters are wired in direct electrical series with the bi-metal gas safety valve. The valve requires exactly 3.2 to 3.6 amps of current to heat its internal bimetal strip and snap open. As igniters age, internal resistance rises, dropping current to 2.5–2.9 amps; the igniter still glows bright orange, but the valve never opens.

The dual gas safety valve mounted behind the burner contains an electrical bimetal actuator. If the heater winding burns out or the internal valve seat binds, gas flow remains blocked even when full 3.6 amps is delivered.

In high-altitude areas above 2,000 feet (such as Denver, Santa Fe, and Colorado Springs), improper manifold pressure or un-derated factory orifices fail to create the proper air-to-fuel velocity over the glowing igniter element.

Spilled baking grease, melted sugar, or aluminum foil flakes fall through burner floor slots, clogging the small pilot flame ports located directly adjacent to the glowing igniter cage.

The bake relay contacts on the main clock control board suffer arcing and pitting. Under initial power, line voltage is sent, but high contact resistance prevents full operating amperage under load.